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An overview of the top 10 fashion designers and their labels for the fall and spring 09 collections. Each label's history, clients, product lines, collaborations, ownership, addresses, and where to buy are detailed. Brands include alice + olivia, christian lacroix, miss sixty, karen walker, akris, milly, and luella bartley.
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New York Collections For Fall 09
Label Overview Alice + Olivia was founded by former Penn classmates Stacey Bendet and Rebecca Matchett in 2002. (The line is named after the fi rst names of the pair’s mothers.) The socially well-connected duo showed Bendet’s fi rst de- signs to a crowd of fashion-industry insiders and celebrities at the Russian Tea Room that year, a “just pants” collection introducing the label’s signa- ture low-rise, slim-fi tting “Staceypants” in bright colors and funky patterns. Bendet split from Matchett and picked up Theory founder Andrew Rosen as chief fi nancial partner in 2003. The label, which now encompasses RTW, childrenswear, and yogawear, is currently sold in more than 800 stores worldwide, as well as stand-alone boutiques in New York, Southampton, Los Angeles, Malibu, and Los Vegas.
Status Newcomer Clients Sarah Jessica Parker, Jada Pinkett-Smith, Fergie, Emma Roberts, and Mena Suvari
Other Product Lines Fragrances, Home, Handbags, Shoes Owned By Falic Group Address 73, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré Paris, France 75008 33-1-42-68-79- Where To Buy Christian Lacroix, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter
Christian Lacroix
Designed By Christian Lacroix, 1988 - Present Shows In Paris Collection Types RTW, Resort Similar Clientele Christian Dior, Chanel Styles & Tags Avant-garde, Critics' Favorite, French, High Fashion, High Society
parisparis Collections For Fall 09
Label Overview
Christian Lacroix designs clothes that are glamorous, expensive-looking, and unapologeti- cally dramatic. Such an aesthetic implored fame on the French label, which eventually came to epitomize the eighties through the designer's use of sumptuous fabrics (velvet, satin, taffeta) and overlapping patterns (patchwork, stripes), all of which left buyers clamoring for more. However, for such a momentous name in fashion, Lacroix fell into the industry by chance, as he spent his childhood in Arles, France and enjoyed attending bullfighting events, and then went on to study art history with dreams of becoming a museum curator or costume designer. Yet, he was destined for high fashion. Before launching his own line, he was an assistant at Hermès, collaborated with the couturier of the Tokyo Imperial Court, and then joined the House of Patou in 1981. Five years later, he launched his own cou- ture label with the bouffant, or "pouf," a fantastical puff y skirt that soon became milestone in fashion history for its inventiveness. A year later he expanded into ready-to-wear, and then diversifi ed into menswear in 2004. At one time part of the LVMH universe, the Falic Group bought the label in 2005. Though profi tability’s been tricky, Lacroix’s pouf skirts, Renaissance-inspired tapestries, and masquerade-ball tulle and lace continue to earn critical praise. His ready-to-wear, which now includes handbags, fragrance, and shoes, can be found in more than 1,000 international stores, including twenty of his own namesake boutiques (New York opened in 2007 for the label's twentieth anniversary), as well as on the bodies of adventurous red-carpet walkers.
Status Established Clients Catherine Zeta-Jones, Ivana Trump, Uma Thurman, Julianne Moore
Other Product LinesOther Product Lines Eyewear, Fragrances, Handbags,Shoes Owned ByOwned By Th e Sixty Group AddressAddress 435 Hudson St., Ste. 400 New York, New York 10014 212-575- Where To BuyWhere To Buy AliKat NYC, Bloomingdale's, Lola, Saks Fift h Avenue
Designed ByDesigned By Wichy Hassan, 1989 - Present Shows InShows In New York Collection TypesCollection Types RTW Similar ClienteleSimilar Clientele Rock & Republic, Diesel Styles & TagsStyles & Tags Casual, Mostly Denim, Sporty, Urban, Lower Priced
Status Critics' Favorite, Established, Household Name Clients Nicole Kidman, Kate Bosworth, Victoria Beckham, Lindsay Lohan, Mary-Kate Olsen, Ashley Olsen Other Product Lines Beauty, Eyewear, Fragrances, Handbags, Shoes Owned By Alain Wertheimer, Gerard Wertheimer Address 135, Avenue Charles de Gaulle Paris, France 92200 33-8-00-31-28- Where To Buy Chanel, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Jeffrey New York, Saks Fift h Avenue Designed By Karl Lagerfeld, 1983 - Present Yvonne Dudel, 1978 - 1983 Jean Cazaubon, 1978 - 1983 Philippe Guibourge, 1978 - 1983 Shows In Paris Collection Types RTW, Resort Similar Clientele Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior Styles & Tags Critics' Favorite, Feminine, French, High Fashion, High Society, Red Carpet, Trendsetters
Paris (^) Collection for Pre-FAll 09
Label Overview After the Blumarine collection achieved both commercial and critical success, designer Anna Molinari created a juniors’ line in 1992. Blugirl carries all the femininity of her moth- er label, featuring baby- doll shapes, chiff on, and fur shrugs. In 2001, Blugirl opened its fi rst stand-alone boutique, and the label has shown at Milan Fashion Week since 2002. In 2007, Molinari started a more casual offshoot of the label, Blugirl Folies.
Milan Collection For Fall 09
Status Established Clients Vanessa Hudgens, Carmen Electra Sibling Labels Blumarine Other Product Lines Eyewear, Home, Handbags, Jeans, Shoes, Underwear Owned By Blufi n SpA Address 13/15/15a Via G. Ferraris Carpi, Italy (MO) 41012 39-059- Where To Buy Neiman Marcus
Designed By Anna Molinari, 1992 - Present Shows In Milan Collection Types RTW Similar Clientele Betsey Johnson, Chloe Styles & Tags Feminine, Italian
Label Overview
Karen Walker started her namesake label in 1988 at the age of 18 with just two shirts. The brand now has an international presence, and includes jewelry, a well-regarded eyewear collection, paints, and ready-to-wear womenswear, which Walker shows at New York fashion week bi-annually. The line, which Women’s Wear Daily has said is “both sweet and tongue-in-cheek,” is a collaborative eff ort: Walker’s husband, Mikhail Gherman, is involved in the creative aspects of production, and since 2002, she has worked closely with the stylist Heathermary Jackson. Although Walker’s stand-alone boutiques are only in New Zealand, her sweet separates with a tomboyish edge can be found in the U.S. in stores like Barneys Co-Op and boutiques like Otte.
Status Established Clients Björk, Sienna Miller, Jennifer Lopez, Claire Danes, Cate Blanchett, Liv Tyler Other Product Lines Eyewear Collaborations Hi There, Diffusion collaboration with Myer Owned By Karen Walker Address 14 Maidstone St. Aukland, New Zealand 1021 64-9-361- Where To Buy Barneys New York, Bird, Oak, Otte
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Label Overview Dubbed by the Financial Times as “the most successful label you've never heard of,” Akris targets heavy-hitting she-executives with di- vinely tailored suits and understated separates. Th e Swiss family-owned label was created by Alice Kriemler Schoch (her initials form A-Kri-S) in 1922, when she started sewing polka-dot aprons. Today, her grandsons run the company, which has become a destination for mature power dressers who don’t do dowdy. Each super-luxe piece is still designed and produced in Switzerland and honors Alice with hidden polka-dots in the lining.
Paris
Collection For Spring 09
Label Overview
Th e label was established in 2000, when founder/designer Michelle Smith returned to New York after working for Paris powerhouses like Hermès and Dior. The collections consistently turn out feminine pieces and classic silhouettes in personally designed fabrics and prints that appeal to socialistas as well as starlets on the preppy side. Milly has perfected the Palm Beach palette with Upper East Side polish.
New York Collection For Spring 09
Status Established Clients Kristin Davis, Cameron Diaz, Jessica Biel, Rosario Dawson, Thandie Newton Owned By Michelle Smith Address 265 W. 37th St., No. 20 New York, New York 10018 212-382- Where To Buy Bergdrof Goodman, Intermix, Saks Fift h Avenue, Scoop
Designed By Michelle Smith, 2000 - Present Shows In New York Collection Types RTW Similar Clientele Tory Burch Styles & Tags American, Feminine
Label Overview Since launching her label in 1999, London-based designer Luella Bartley has delivered a consistent- ly diff erent take on English attire. Her look embodies the British "It" girl, with punk and frilly accents, pearls adorning layered party dresses, and tastefully cropped jackets. The label had a brief stint showing in New York (2001 to 2007), but Bartley returned her brand to London to coincide with the opening of her fi rst stand- alone store in fall 2007.
Designed By Luella Bartley, Fall 2000 - Present Shows In London Collection Types RTW Similar Clientele Marc by Marc Jacobs Styles & Tags British, Casual, Eccentric/Whimsical, Feminine