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Coastal Ocean: Upwelling, Temperature, Salinity, Estuaries - Prof. M. Madlan Mckernan, Study notes of Oceanography

An overview of the coastal ocean, focusing on its characteristics, currents, upwelling, temperature, salinity, estuaries, and marginal seas. Topics such as coastal ocean areas, complex shorelines, currents influenced by tides, winds, and river discharge, geostrophic currents, seasonal changes, boundary currents, upwelling, temperature and salinity variations, and estuarine circulation. It also discusses the mediterranean sea, black sea, and red sea as examples of marginal seas.

Typology: Study notes

Pre 2010

Uploaded on 08/04/2009

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COASTAL OCEANCOASTAL OCEAN
We will start with chapter 11 first, then chapter 10
Coastal ocean
Shallow ocean area over continental shelf
Complex shorelines
Currents are more or less parallel to the shoreline
1. tides and winds have strong influence
2. affected by river discharge
3 estuarine circulation prevails (will see this later)
3
.
estuarine
circulation
prevails
(will
see
this
later)
–4. Davidson coastal: geostrophic currents (arises
from a balance between the down-slope component
of the gravitational force and the Coriolis effect
that deflects it) that parallel the coast (Fig 11.4 p
333)
Currents are more or less parallel to the shoreline
cont.
5. seasonal change - summer wind diminish or
little river discharge, and weaken coastal currents -
winter storms - coastal currents are re-established
Example
surface waters can be blown toward shore and
held there by winds, depressing the pycnocline
(where water density changes markedly with depth
- changes in either temperature, salinity or both,
can cause the marked change in density). A
sloping sea surface results creating geostrophic
sloping
sea
surface
results
,
creating
geostrophic
currents that parallel the coast. Because of this
parallel flow transfer of freshwater across the
coastal ocean is slow - residence time of
freshwater is long, 1/2 year to 2+ years
pf3
pf4
pf5
pf8
pf9
pfa

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COASTAL OCEANCOASTAL OCEAN

  • We will start with chapter 11 first, then chapter 10

Coastal ocean

  • Shallow ocean area over continental shelf
  • Complex shorelines
    • Currents are more or less parallel to the shoreline
        1. tides and winds have strong influence
        1. affected by river discharge
        1. estuarine circulation prevails (will see this later) 3 estuarine circulation prevails (will see this later)
        1. Davidson coastal: geostrophic currents (arises from a balance between the down-slope component of the gravitational force and the Coriolis effect that deflects it) that parallel the coast (Fig 11.4 p

Currents are more or less parallel to the shoreline cont.

    1. seasonal change - summer wind diminish or little river discharge, and weaken coastal currents - winter storms - coastal currents are re-established

Example

  • surface waters can be blown toward shore and held there by winds, depressing the pycnocline (where water density changes markedly with depth
    • changes in either temperature, salinity or both, can cause the marked change in density). A sloping sea surface results creating geostrophicsloping sea surface results, creating geostrophic currents that parallel the coast. Because of this parallel flow transfer of freshwater across the coastal ocean is slow - residence time of freshwater is long, 1/2 year to 2+ years

Boundary currents

  • Western boundary current - strongest in

oceans

    1. deep, narrow, swift
    1. intensified by Earth s rotation intensified by Earth's rotation
    1. often meander and spin off rings that move separately
  • Eastern boundary currents
    1. broad, shallow, slow-moving
    1. often associated with up welling areas

Up welling

  • Up welling induced by winds or river

discharge cause nutrient-rich waters to

move into surface zone

  • Coastal up welling occurs along thep g g

California-Oregon coast (fishing) and

western coasts of South America (fishing)

  • These waters usually come from about 200

meters depth (cold plus nutrients)

Temperature and salinity

  • Marked changes in temp and salinity along

coast and offshore due to winds ( Fig 11.2, & 3

p 332 & 333 )

  • Strong seasonal changes
    • winter, cold winds bring on rain and lower salinity
    • summer, dry winds from the continent cause evaporation - while blowing across coastal waters increase salinity through evaporation

Temperature and salinity

  • Evaporation occurs from all oceans - lowest

salinity occurs near large rivers (Amazon

discharges fresh water about 1 mile out)

  • Extreme temperatures occur in surface

coastal waters - surface temp > 40o^ C

3 points

    1. no mixing - warm water on top of cooler water

Temperature and salinity cont.

  • Extreme temperatures occur in surface cont.
      1. limited fetch (distance over which the wind blows in a constant direction) in small ocean areas limits wave action - inhibit vertical mixing
      1. 3 lower surfacelower surface-water temperatures water temperatures areare controlled by freezing sea water at -2oC
        • large surface area - shallow bays and lagoons - low salinity (river discharge)

Estuaries, fjords, and lagoons Fig 11.5 p 334

  • Estuary - a semienclosed body of water where

fresh water from the land mixes with saltwater -

found on stable ( sinking Atlantic-type ) margin

  • Formed by flooding of indentations along the coast
  • Drowned river a valleys
  • Coastal plain estuaries are typically broad, and gradually deepen seaward

Estuaries

  • Vertically mixed estuary - (well mixed)

salinity at any point is uniform from the

surface to the bottom - river water mixes

evenly Fig. 11.7 a p 335

  • shallow - low volume - little or no transport of sea water inward

Estuarys cont.

  • Slightly stratified estuary - (partially mixed)

two basic water layers - fresher on top,

increased salinity at bottom, with mixing iny , g

the middle Fig. 11.7 b p 335

  • deeper - salinity increasing from head to mouth

Estuaries cont.

  • Highly stratified estuary - (Fjord type) Fig.

11.5 p 334

  • deep water has uniform salinitydeep water has uniform salinity
  • upper water increases in salinity from head

to mouth

  • relatively strong halocline

MARGINAL SEAS

  • partially isolated from coastal ocean - have

varying degrees of exchange with the open

oceans - salinity and temperature isy p

different than those of typical sea water

Marginal seas of the Atlantic

    1. Mediterranean Sea Fig. 11.14 a p 341 T
  • a. number of small seas connected by narrowa. number of small seas connected by narrow necks
  • b. remains of the Tethys Sea that separated former continents of Laurasia and Gondwanaland

Marginal seas of the Atlantic cont.

    1. Mediterranean Sea cont. T 106
    • c. oppositepp to the pattern characteristic ofp estuaries (where surface freshwater flow goes into the open ocean and saline subsurface flow enters the estuary) Fig. 11.14 b p 341

Marginal seas of the Atlantic cont.

    1. Caribbean Sea T 107
    • a. connects to Atlantic by way of the Anegada Passage (very deep 2300 m)g ( y p )
    • b. four major basins - Venezuela, Colombia, Cayman, Yucatan depths > 4000m
    • c. cold nutrient rich upwellings

Marginal seas of the Atlantic cont.

    1. Gulf of Mexico T 107
    • a. connected to the Atlantic by way of the Straits of Florida (1000m)( )
    • b. Florida current - part of the Gulf stream
    • c. Loop Current

Marginal seas of the Atlantic cont.

    1. Gulf of Mexico T 107
    • Vertical Salinity in Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico T 108 - a. saltier warmer water does not sink

Marginal seas of the Pacific

    1. Gulf of California
    1. Bearing Sea triangle shaped
    • a. volcanic island arc of the Aleutians with a broad continental shelf T
    • b. three domainsb three domains
        1. coastal 50 m deep and 80-150 km from shore
        1. middle 100 m deep 350-400 km from shore
        1. outer 170 m deep 500 km from shore T 110
    1. Bearing Sea triangle shaped cont.
  • c. biological productivity T 111
  • d. nutrient supply from upwelling T 112d. nutrient supply from upwelling T 112
  • e. large phytoplankton biomass T 113

Marginal seas of the Mediterranean Area

    1. Black Sea - estuarine like circulation T 106
    • a. water flows in via several large rivers - Danube which drains Central Europe ( flowing generally eastwards for a distance of some 2850 km (1771 miles), passing through several Central and Eastern European capitals, before emptying into the Black Sea via ththe DD anube Deltab D l ii n RR omaniai .))
    • b. high salinity (38.52) flows in from the Mediterranean Sea along the bottom of the Bosporus (a narrow channel with a shallow sill)

Coastal processes cont.

  • Shoreline cont.
    1. glacier retreats and advances resulted in sea- level changes - if the glaciers in Antarctica and Greenland melted the sea surface would be as high as 50 meters above its present level

Coastal processes cont.

  • Coastlines
    • Some are formed mainly by terrestrial processes - increased water level - 1. drowned river valleys - 2. fjords
    • Volcanoes
        1. island of Hawaii
        1. crater that has lost the seaward portion of its rim
        1. See next slide

Coastal processes cont.

  • Coastlines cont.
    • Bluffs are eroded and deposited near shore
    • Barrier islands and spits - sand is moved along coasts by long shore currents Fig. 10.3 p 304
    • Waves in the surf zone produce a long-shoreWaves in the surf zone produce a long shore current that transports sediment - arrows indicate on-shore and long-shore water movement Fig 10.3 p 304 in book
    • wave rays perpendicular to wave crest p 258

Long shore currents

Coastal processes cont.

  • Beaches - sediment deposit in motion Fig. 10.7 p 307
      1. sand beaches, barrier islands, and bays boarder the U.S. Atlantic Coast from New York to Key West, Florida
      1. barrier islands and lagoons on Gulf Coast Fig. 10.10 p 310
      1. sediment supplied by rivers or by erosion of bluffs Fig. 10.4 p 305
      1. moved by wave action or tidal currents Fig. 10.3 p 304

Coastal processes cont.

    1. dynamic relationship between beach and offshore deposits
      • beaches are accumulations of locally abundant materials not immediately removed by waves, currents, or winds
    1. kinds of beaches - sand, bolder, lava, gravel
    1. Some anatomy of the beach Fig. 10.1 p 302
    • a. berm - highest part of the beach
    • b. dunes - formed by beach sands blown by prevailing winds and colonized by salt tolerant plants ( Spartina )

Coastal san dunes and Spartina sp.

TIFF (Uncompressed) decompressorare needed to see this picture.^ QuickTime™ and a

Coastal processes cont.

  • Seasonal beach changes S&A 138 Fig 10 2 p 303 - summer beach - winter beach

Barriers on the beach

  • Fig. 10.20 p 320
  • Fig. 10.22 p 321
  • Fig. 10.24 p 322g p

Beach compartments

  • Fig 10.12 p 312

Delta

  • deposit of river borne sediments discharged into

ocean (read this in the book) You will see this

on the next exam

    1. supply exceeds transport of sediment away from river mouth
    1. usually areas of low tidal range and little wave action

Salt marsh Mangrove swamps

  • tropical areas where mangroves dominate marshes
      1. restricted to latitudes below 30 o
      1. once established, they normally out grow and replace marsh grasses red > Black > Whitereplace marsh grasses red -> Black -> White
      1. pneumatophores - roots above water, allows O 2 to enter the plant systems
      1. the loss of the mangrove trees allowed the tsunami of 2004 to penetrate further in land than it would have if the mangroves were allowed to remain

Mangrove

Black mangrove tree

Shark among mangrove roots